Otto ramble's around Hessen with “the little’un” and also our long suffering guide Boo the Bernie, we found some of really good brew-pubs, and as we like surprises we left a few for the next time we visit;
Any way lets set the scene; Hessen is right in the heart of Germany, and is international and open-minded but also deeply rooted in its heritage and history. Frankfurt am Main (follow the link to the cities beer scene) is a fast-developing European metropolis, with quite a good beer ramble if you are prepared to travel a little. But just one hour away lies untouched wilderness for example, in the Odenwald, Taunus or Vogelsberg. From Kassel to Darmstadt and from Fulda to Wiesbaden, the cities of Hesse are unique in their cultural offerings and architecture. Many roads lead through the holiday state of Hessen. The routes are lined with things to see and do, inviting you to visit romantic half-timbered towns and pulsating cities, each with its own special charm.
Getting Around - Hesse has one of the best transportation infrastructures in Europe. Many trans-European and German motorways cross Hesse as well as high-speed train lines and many important trans-European waterways. Frankfurt International Airport is Germany's biggest airport and the third largest in Europe (after London and Paris).
Near the airport is the Frankfurter Kreuz, Germany's busiest motorway intersection, this is where the motorways A3 (Arnhem-Cologne-Frankfurt-Nuremberg-Passau) and the A5 (Hattenbach-Frankfurt-Karlsruhe-Basel) meet. Frankfurt (Main) Hauptbahnhof is Germany's busiest railway station by passengers.
Hesse has a dense highway network with a total of 24 motorways. The internationally important motorway routes through Hesse are the A3, A5 and A7. The A5 becomes as large as 5 lanes in each direction near the city of Frankfurt am Main.
Darmstadt
Our base is normally just outside of the University town of Darmstadt, which has three brewery's to go at and a couple of great pubs;
Darmstädter Ratskeller Hausbrauerei GmbH, Marktplatz 8
Open: daily 10.00. - 01.00
A brew pub that is located in the old town on the opposite side of the Marktplaz to the Schloss, perfect for people watching, taking a break from shopping, or just hanging out. Note all beers are unfiltered. There is open air seating on the Marktplaz which was very pleasant, and they provide fleece blankets if you get a little chilly. Inside there is a large circular bar that has tables arrange around it like spokes of a wheel! The brewing coppers are to the right. Typical robust basic food is served and the kitchen is open plan. Dark wooden furniture with white washed walls with “medieval type” artwork. We tried he Pills, Export and the wissen bier all were very good. You'll really enjoy it if you venture down into the beer cellar, too; stone walls, low lighting, and lots of ambiance.
Brauerei Grohe, Nieder-Ramstädter-Str. 3
Open Mon-Sat 10am – 12pm Sun 4pm – 12pm
Street Corner brewery and tap, just south of the city centre. This is actually a mid-size brewery with a biergarten attached, right in the centre of Darmstadt.It is actually owned by the Darmstadt Brewery but keeps it own identity. The menu is small but cheap and delicious. Try the infamous Alsacian pizza with 2 big schnitzels on top. There are two regular beers plus a seasonal, super fresh. easy access via the tramway and 10 minutes walk from Louisenplatz. Fills quickly so go early. We haveactually had lunch at the head brewers table.
Darmstädter Privatbrauerei GmbH, Goebelstr. 7
A brewery directly opposite the Haupbanhof (train station) the tap is in front of the brewery;
Open: Daily 10.00 - 01.00
This is a great place on one large multi level room with distinctive areas and lots of atmosphere. The food is pretty good, standard German food with perhaps an emphasis on Bavarian. There was a large selection of Beers 10 regular beers plus sessional.
Located opposite the Brauerei Grohe is;
Sitte Restaurant, Karlstrasse 15
Open 11:30am to 1am most days
It seems like a fine dining establishment in that it is quite proper with white tablecloths and candles, and a spring flower motif, even in the bar area. The food on the menu seemed quite pricey, but the food was unique, and seemed interesting. The traditional fare was competitively priced. Oh, and they have beer. They are an outlet for the Pfungstadter brewery and have all of those products available, most on draft. The beers were good and so was the service. But it's a kind of quiet and cosy place; not a drinking place for everyone.
Die Theke, Rheinstr. 26
Open 11am most days Except Sat & Sun 3pm
The bar has long been a meeting place for "young people" of all ages. The best beer pub in Darmstadt. Small interesting and has an interesting circular bar in the centre which 12 taps come out of. Which means you can watch the serving girls walk around it and tap beer all night. Food is good pub fair and the prices are not bad. Outside is the smallest beergarten in Darmstadt on the street a must see for sure. Great place
Hopfenherz GbR - Biermanufaktur, Feldbergstraße 3, Weiterstadt
A new micro brewery that do hop forward beers.
Maruhn, Pfungstadterstr. 174 Beer Store
No. 1 German beer shop concerning variety. The focus is obviously German, but there are Belgian, British, and American all in one location! The staff do not speak much English, but that is not a problem. There is a large wine section and some spirits, along with logo glassware.
Michelstadt
Michelstadt located in the Odenwald region of Hessen. This is a peaceful medieval town, embracing a small river among open, flat ground. This town must be one of the prettiest places in Hessen and also one of the best preserved. Complete with bright half-timber houses and a largely intact city wall, Michelstadt's charming downtown was colourful, picturesque and historic.
Michelstädter Rathausbräu, Mauerstrasse 1-3
Hours: Mon - Sun 11.00 - 1.00
That is hidden behind the church tower the Rathaubrau is built straight onto the old city wall and as you go upstairs into the “wintergarten” you can see part of the wall and an additional plus is the snaps distillery that is encased in glass they produce at least 4 types of schnapps, well worth a taste! One worth recommending tasted of cinnamon. All the beers are unfiltered we were lucky enough to sample four of the beers the Pills, Marzen, Weizen and my favourite the Schwarzbier, which was very quaffable. The food is above average and he service was very good. We ate in the bier garden that is in a small courtyard that the main street runs through. The brew kit dominates the bar but there is still that olde world feel.
Daum Brau , Erbacher Strasse 149.
Open: Tue-Sat from 17.00, Closed Sun & Mon
As you walk up the street you come to some large gates, go through these to the rear courtyard and there you will find bier heaven. A small lounge bar with three round tables outside for drinking when the weather is nice. Inside the bar is one room with eclectic seating and unusual art work on the walls. A real gem of a place. Ralph is a one man band with a little help from his mother . The brewery is located just before the bar and is small and compact.
This is a real labour of love. Ralph is really passionate about beer, and we had a good chat throughout the night, whilst sampling his beers. Available at the time were a Pils and a Weissen both unfiltered and very quaffable. He was planning to do a stout when we talked to him. Which I believe has now been brewed and named “Celtic” stout which Bernie and Joerg have sampled to good reports. Mmmmmm. Music on the evening of our visit was provided form the extensive collection of Doctor Music, thanks.
Brauerei Georg Dörr, Hochstr. 15.
The typical Odenwald beer specialties have been brewed for almost three centuries.
We only use the best raw materials, which are processed into the finest beers with the Odenwald spring water in the traditional, original brewing method. The Michelstädter brewery from the Odenwald looks back on almost 300 years of history. The region has enjoyed Michelstädter beer since 1721. The Brewery is located on the opposite side of the town from their tap:
Zum Deutschen Haus, Bahnhofstraffe 20.
Open: Thurs - Sun 11.30 - 14.30 -- 17.30 - 22.30
Old style German brewery tap, lots of dark wood inside a nice little courtyard for outside drinking and great tratitional food.
Hemsbach
Hemsbach is a town with approximately 12,000 inhabitants in the Rhein-Neckar-Kreis of Baden-Württemberg, Germany. It belongs to the European Rhine-Neckar Metropolitan Region. It is situated on the Bergstraße, 18 km northeast of Mannheim. Hemsbach was twinned with Wareham, Dorset in the UK in 1986.
M² - Grasslandbrewers UG (haftungsbeschränkt), Bachgasse 75,69502 Hemsbach
Open: Sat 10.00 13.00
A cool little nano brewery that opens once a week. The guys are really friendly and happy to chat about the beer in the small tasting room. Nearly all of the beer is bottled. They have a changing range of beers, and brew seasonal beers to match the season. In the cold season they offer more bottom-fermented (cold-fermented) beers. In the summer there are more top-fermented beers such as wheat beer and ales.
Witzenhausen
Schinkel’s Brauhaus, Burgstrasse 20.
Small brewery with a good restaurant, normally serving four beers of average to good quality. Worth a visit if you are in the area.
Fritzlar
Brauhaus 18•80, Auf der Lache 4.
Hours: Mo.-Fr. ab 17:00 Sa 1500 So 1100
A large 150 seats in the interior, with 120 seats in the cosy winter garden and 150 seats in the large beer garden, plus the 18 • 80 smoker's house A small open-air stage for events.
Wetter Amoenau
Amönau Dorfbrauhaus, Raiffeisenstrasse 4
Hours: Tu-Fri: from 18:00; Sat: from 15:00; Sun: from 11
Wooden beamed pub that is a little hidden away. Opened in 2007.
Hausbrauerei Latzko, Harkauer Weg 5
Hours: Daily from 10am – late!
Modern brewpub, serving some classic German biers and very good food.
Seligenstadt
The town of Seligenstadt is thought to be one of the oldest in Germany, and has an amazingly ornate basilica within its centre. Seligenstadt has been a major centre for craftsman, traders, fisherman, and mercenaries, and you can catch a glimpse of how they lived their lives by visiting any of the many museums around town and the ever popular Benedictine abbey which church has been preserved for more than one thousand years. Anyway we were primally here for the bier; the town has a brew-pub and a medium sized brewery. So let's start with the Brew Pub first.
Kleines Brauhaus, Bahnhofstrasse 55, 63500 Seligenstadt.
Open; Mon-Sat 16:00-24:00 Sun11:00 to 23:00
This Brauhaus is very easy to find as it is directly opposite the railway station. Open since 1999 so looks like it is here for the duration? A small one roomed bar area, with a veranda with extra seating if its nice weather. Also a large beer garden that is shaded by trees. The brewery is in the far corner of the beer garden. There is also another long room with trestle tables that has a nice old fashion feel to it with a small stage at the end, as they host regular live music events. Anyway the beer was above average we tried the Dunkles Weizen,The Weizen and the Helles personally I thought the Helles was the best one. We did not eat here but the food looked really good and there were lots of people eating. A short walk of about 5 minuets takes you into the centre of the town were just of the main square is;
Glaabsbrau, Frankfurter Straße 9 - 63500 Seligenstadt.
A large brewery that was established in 1744 and you can tell this by the quality of the beer. The brewery is reached by going under a large arch, and just to the left is the brewery tap;
Zum Römischen Kaiser, Open 11:30 to 14;00 and 17.30to 23;00weekdays and 10 to midnight weekends. On our visit it was really hot so we sat outside in the ample sized beer garden. Were we had a light lunch and sampled a few of the beers the most outstanding to me was the Dunkles at 5.3%abv that was more like a Schwarzbier Inside the main bar is quite small and cosy with lots of dark wood. They also have a hotel so a really great place to stay as the town is really nice and there is lots to do.
Gross-Umstadt
Gross-Umstadt is quaint, quite different from what you'd expect, and of course, full of pleasant surprises. Groß-Umstadt does not seem to care that the world has moved on. Of course, it does have its modern comforts and paraphernalia, but all that’s so well camouflaged under the medieval ambience that soaks the very air, and it has a really great brew pub.
Umstädter Brauhaus, Zimmerstraβe 28, 64823 thr Great Umstadt.
Mon-Sat. 18.00 - 24.00, Sundays and holidays 14.30 - 21.00.
This place was a little tricky to find but we got there, this place is just great, pirched on the side of a hill overlooking the town and the valley for miles around. The brew pub itself is quite small, with an oval bar to the left as you go through the doors and the brew kit enclosed by glass behind that. The seating are is all pine and there are some quite cosy booths. The beer garden is “L” shaped around the outside of the building. They serve a small basic snack type menu with three of their own beers to sample. We tried all three and there were very good. First up was the Pils, a bottom fermentation, golden beer, with a semi-dry finish and nice aromatic hops aromas. Next up was the Export also bottom fermented, dark brown beer that was, malty and tasty. Last but not least was the Wiezen Bier, Top-fermented, amber bier, that was crisp and easy to drink, very refreshing on a hot day.
Fulda
Hochstiftliches Brauhaus Fulda, Leipziger Str. 12
The largest brewery in town, serving 5 very good beers.
Hohmanns Brauhaus, Florengasse 3-5
Hours: Mo-Fr 06.30-14.00 and from 17.30; Sa-Su from 06:30
Nice cosy restaurant i a modern looking building on the edge of the old centre. Inside is a mix of traditional and modern styles, that is quite well done. Outside there is a terrace. The food is quite good, the beers are drinkable to decent. They have 5 taps. Food is excellent and cheap. Nice stop in Fulda.
Brauhaus Wiesenmühle, Wiesenmuehlenstr. 13
Hours: 11:00 - 01:00
Brewpub (and hotel) that serves two beers. The Wiesenmühlebier which is a Pils + one seasonal. The brewery, pub, restaurant and hotel are all located within the old Watermill, that still runs and provides the place with electricity. This is a great representation of a true German brewpub. Excellent quality lager, local pride and charm, good hearty tucker, cheap, and a nice beer garden with a family friendly atmosphere, especially if you need a place to sleep.
Gießen
Gasthausbrauerei Alt-Giessen, Westanlage 30-32
Hours: Mon-Sun from 11.30
A nice brewpub / restaurant that is decorated in a medieval market way. With 4 beers on tap, (dunkel, weizen and helles always). The atmosphere is typical German. Maybe a bit noisy but that’s the price you pay for a good place. The food is more than OK and the beers are much better than what I’m used to in Germany. I can recommend this one for sure, with normally good beers and in good condition.
Egelsbach
Egelsbach is quite happy with its small town tag and has no claim to any breath-taking attraction to woo visitors, would probably have slipped right through tourist maps and guidebooks if it weren’t for a busy little commercial airport, the Egelsbach Airfield. That is also home to a brewpub;
Schuhbeck´s Check Inn, Hans-Fleissner-Str. Egelsbach,
CLOSED 2014
Owned by a renowned chef and author of many cookery books. This is a really nice place, just on the field of and you can see airplanes land and take off. The place has two levels the upper mezzanine level, being a type of “night club” type bar for the trendy young people? The ground floor is quite large and has three or four defined separate areas, with the brew kit set at one end. Lots of money has been spent on the place. You are met by a matradee as you enter and the waters are very attentive. The food is very good, but a bit pricy. Also there is a lot of emphasise on the wineand the beer takes a back seat (IMO) The beers were the standard three a Hells, Dunkel and a Hefeweizen; we tried all three and they were found wanting. If you are in the area it is worth a stop to try the beers but I would not go out of my way to get here again. Personally I found the place a little pretentious!
Pfungstadt
Pfungstadt spreads its fame through its legendary beer and the Frankenstein connection. Pfungstadt has a very off-the-beaten path look that draws you into the heart of the town. The old buildings date back to 735 and are quite picturesque. The hills of the Odenwald loom in the distance and all seems serene and pastoral. But monsters lurk here! The main monster is old, but famous; “Frankenstein’s monster” from books and movies. In Pfungstadt you can see the original ruined castle for yourself. No one is allowed in… it is a ruin, after all. So back to the beer;
BrauDich GmbH, Sandstraße 33, Pfungstadt
Open: Tues - Sat 08.30 - 12.300
A cool little nano brewery that has only started brewing recently. They only brew when the whole brew has been ordered. This is how they guarantee that their beer is always fresh. That's what they call "the perfect 5" five weeks it tastes unattainably good!
Pfungstädter Brauerei, Eberstädterstr. 89 Pfungstadt 64319.
Pfungstädter is a very large regional brewery whose beers are available over most of the region. The brewery tap is just at the side of the brewery.
Brauerei-Ausschank, Mühlstraße 1, 64319.
Open Mon-Fri from 11:30 to 14:00 - 18.00-24.00 - Sat 18.00 - 24.00 - Sun 11.30 14.00
This place was very nice three separate dining areas and a large beer garden of which we took full advantage. They serve the full range of the breweries beers and they were quite quaffable one of note were the 1831 Schwarzbier a 5.3% dark delight that I would love to have a few more of also the Edel Pils was very refreshing at 4.9%. The staff were very friendly and the food was above average and quite large portions. I would defiantly recommend a visit here and may be booking a brewery tour beforehand would be a good idea.
Bad Arolsen
Hofbrauhaus Arolsen, Kaulbachstrasse 33.
Hours: Mo-Fr from 17, Tue, Thu, Fr also 11-14:30, Sat-Sun from 11am
The oldest brewery in Hesse, brewing since 1131. Classic German brewpub, good beers on tap, fresh from the "beer-cow". Old style decorations, filled with dried hop plants, good fresh bier. Service typical German!
Babenhausen
Hours: Daily from 1730 also Sun-Fri 1130-1430.
The tap for the Michelsbrau brewery which is next door. Standard German food but a little over priced?
Idstein
Idsteiner Bräuhaus Alte, Schulgasse 6.
Hours: Tu-Sa 11:30-24:00; Su 10:00-23:00
Great little brewpub that is located in the old fire station on the edge of the old market square and in the shadow of the castle. An “L” shaped bar serving three of their own beers all unfiltered and all very drinkable. IMO one of the best brewpubsin the area, well worth a visit.
Marburg
Elisabeth Braukeller-Bistro, Steinweg 45
Hours: Restaurant: 11:30-14 / 18:00-23, Braukeller: 18-2
A great little brewpub with a breathtaking view of St. Elisabethright, roughly halfway between the main train station and the old city centre, far enough from the plethora of pubs in lovely old buildings located in the latter. The brewery is in the cellar, and it’s more or less typical vaulted copper-kettled fare, but the atmosphere in the pastel-coloured interior is a touch more pleasant than the average. The service was good and fast. The beers fine enough, far above the average of the bottled stuff of the region. That "puking sink" in the toilet is a nice touch, though it didn’t seem to me that the pub’s getting a ton of visitors who drink themselves senseless usually - might be wrong! A must-visit when in town.
Quodlibet, Am Grün 37.
Hours: Winter, from 17:30; summer from 16:00, every day
Somewhat outside the old city centre (nothing unmanageable), this pub, larger than most, with what seems to be a nice patio in the summer seems to boast a store as well, and a grill I guess. The inside seemed a bit dark, with a lot of beer paraphernalia around. The beer selection is the best of those I’ve seen around the town with 4 relatively local beers on tap, and two Höhl ciders/apple wines. The service is great really, helpful, friendly. No wifi unfortunately (why is German so behind in these things?). Really good to see a pub that’s into beer this much!
Mainz Kastel
Brauhaus Castel, Otto-Suhr Ring 27.
Hours: M-Sat: 11:00AM-12AM Sun: 10:00AM-11:00PM
Larger brewpub a bit outside the city centre. It has a large parking space just outside. Inside it is medieval with a hunting theme, but it gives it a very cosy atmosphere. Seemed very authentic, using good stuff for beer and food, and a very friendly staff. With three regular beers and a season one well worth a visit.